The Sound of Desolation

As is typical, there are names for different areas and the place we are cruising is called Desolation Sound. The name is sort of….. appropriate. One can cruise for hours and see forest, mountains and water with a few places where it is clear the forests have been cut and are re-growing. But, no towns or villages or houses. Then you see a cabin or a very nice home. No access except by boat, or if you wish float plane. Definitely a place to escape and live quite isolated.

See the little building and boats at the very bottom? This is a typical “home” with a little marina. The big boat there is about 150 ft! Big landscapes.

Toba Islet. This is a glacial valley. You can see some spots where logging has been done. Float the logs out, but I can’t imagine how they get up there, cut and then “roll” the logs down.

You can cruise for hours and see hardly anyone.

One needs to look for an anchorage. Lots of water, so should be east. Nay, nay. This is fjord country; old glacial area. Thus we spent much time cruising in 500 – 1000 feet of water. One can’t carry enough chain to anchor in that depth of water. There are luckily lots of nice little coves throughout the area. Some are filled with aquaculture; this is big oyster country. Not generally a good place to anchor as they can have a few more flies (make that many flies) and they are not the “feel” one wants. So, you check out a different place. Yes, this seems like it will be good. Oh, wait, there are already 15 boats here. 15! Feast or famine. Desolation??? Turns out, it does not matter if you are on land or sea, everyone has the same guide book. Bigger than an RV park in most cases, but definitely not desolation. All in all though, pretty pleasant.

Gorge Cove. Cute place. There is ferry service to this island. Nice restaurant. We anchored at the other end of the cove with the oysters and the flies.

Living on a boat. Turns out, but we basically knew this, is just a floating RV. We are hoping to learn a bit more about the boating scene to decide if we want a floating RV. The living parts are easy;learning the ropes (lines in boating lingo) of boat management, anchoring, etc are the interesting part. We used to have a 27′ cabin cruiser, but we’d only done lake boating. Being in the big pond, even if in sheltered waters is a bit different. We never dealt with tides, not instruments such as radar, depth finders, marine radios, etc. Lots to learn.

Some of the cuts between channels are rather narrow, but deep.

A bit on wildlife… I always expect to see more than I do. After birding in the tropics, I expect to see birds all the time. This is not the tropics. One has to work hard to see the birds. Lots of gulls, and a few eagles, but that is about it. I’d love to see bears fishing again, but one has to get inland for that. They like fishing in fresh water and thus, you have to find a good flowing river where the salmon are running. And deer, elk, moose, etc, want to be inland where water is fresh. So, we’ve see one deer and a squirrel, both in town.

We’ve seen quite a few harbour seals.

Lots of eagles. We’ve seen a few just are almost ready to fledge.

The do grow mushrooms big up here.


The Sound of Desolation — 1 Comment

  1. Oops, forgot to refresh my browser and missed two posts. Is interesting about the birds-when I did fjords in Alaska on the Kenai peninsula there were a zillion birds. All different possibilities of why